As temperatures rise, Limestone brewmaster touts seasonal beer
By Brian Stanley bstanley@stmedianetwork.com July 20, 2011 9:14PM
Ken McMullen, brewmaster at Limestone Brewing Company, pours The Wheatlander Wednesday, July 20, 2011, at 12337 Rt. 59, Suite 155, in Plainfield. | Matthew Grotto~Sun-Times Media
Berry brew’s history
Another seasonal beer available at Limestone is Professor Darnell’s Berry Ale — a name that a wit like Winston Churchill would likely have approved of.
“Professor Darnell was a balloonist,” McMullen explained. “His signature stunt was leaping to a trapeze while hanging from the hot air balloon.”
During a 1908 performance at Electric Park in Plainfield, Darnell missed the trapeze and fell to his death.
“No one claimed his body, so the city and the public had to take up a collection to have him buried,” McMullen said. “The Plainfield berry ale is now also named for Darnell’s burial.”
This year’s batch was brewed with blueberries, while last year’s used raspberries.
“And we may use strawberry next year,” McMullen said. “It’s a good summer beer.”
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Updated: November 16, 2011 1:38AM
PLAINFIELD — It’s another hot one, but before you reach for a cold one, listen to local brewer Ken McMullen.
“The coldest beer in town” isn’t automatically the best choice, the Limestone Brewing Company brewmaster said.
“Cold numbs the taste buds, so you won’t get any flavor from it. You want it refreshing, but a frozen glass with ice cold beer won’t be as good of an experience,” McMullen said. “As beer warms up, the ingredients and aromas come out and you actually will taste more.”
But McMullen’s Plainfield brewpub knows the appeal of a cold brew during a heat wave. Some drinkers will use this week’s triple-digit temperatures as a reason to seek seasonal summer beers from liquor stores and smaller breweries. Others will go for the major label brands that brew aficionados call “lawnmower beers,” saying — they are only fit for drinking while doing yardwork.
“Budweiser, Miller, etc. they’re very low in alcohol content and aren’t what you’ll order to have with a meal,” one beer enthusiast said. “They’re lighter beers you can drink and keep drinking for a while.”
McMullen said microbrews are also lighter in the summer. Wheat beers, such as witbiers and hefeweizens, and fruity ales gain popularity this time of year.
“The citrus character is very appealing when it’s hot out,” McMullen said. “Also a lot of people are on vacation and will drink longer. They don’t want something heavy.”
McMullen recommends first trying wheat beers without the lemon or orange they’re frequently served with before adding them in if a stronger citrus taste is desired.
Wisdom and Wit
McMullen’s new summer brew, Wisdom and Wit, which includes orange peel and coriander, will debut at 7 p.m. Thursday at Limestone, 12337 S. Route 59.
“It’s expected to be a hot seller, no pun intended,” he said.
McMullen began brewing 217 gallons last month. It was ready to be served last week, but the extra time let the flavors meld.
McMullen started preparing the batch before coming up with the name. While chaperoning a church trip he ended up touring a museum at Westminster College in Winchester, Mo.
It was there British Prime Minster Winston Churchill coined the phrase “the iron curtain” during a speech in 1946.
“I learned about Churchill’s wisdom and wit and thought it would be a good name for a ‘wit’ beer,” he said.
With outside temperatures at 97 degrees Wednesday afternoon, McMullen and assistant brewer Steve Woertendyke kept their cool in the 34-degree tank room, setting up the line to the tap at the bar.
McMullen poured a glass to preview before Thursday’s premiere and went over some of the things he’ll explain when he gets up onstage to order the bartenders to “release the wit.”
“It turned out fabulous,” he said, “and I’m excited to get it out there.”
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